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Bilge Brothers' Bio
Syndication for November 2006


Cold Weather Outboard Use: a guide to running throughout the winter
With cold weather preparation and maintenance, your outboard engine can be used in almost any conditions, even below freezing. Proper lubrication and maintenance will result in an engine that is ready to start and run any time, any where.
Before winter weather hits, change your engine’s lower unit lube as residual water can freeze and fracture the gear case. Because of its lower viscosity, 0W-30 oil in extremely low temperatures retains its fluidity, allowing easier starting due to less fluid drag, and shorter warm-ups. Brian Blankenhiem of Mercury Marine advises that before starting the engine, soak it in the cold water for up to ten minutes. After starting the engine, allow it to slowly warm up to its operating temperature before opening up the throttle. Take things a little slower in cold weather.
Yamaha’s Robert Orr notes that engines with fuel injection shouldn't have any problems starting. Carbureted engines might get an easier start in really cold temperatures by richening the idle circuit. Do this by turning the idle mixture adjustment screw or the air bleed screw to a richer setting. Don’t go crazy; we’re talking about 1/16 inch movements while the engine is running at idle.
The frozen gas line is a nasty problem to fix once you’re committed to the weather and the water. The only solution is to remove the gas line with your numb fingers and blow it out. Gas treatments like Sea Foam and HEET can help prevent fuel line freezing and should be added to every tank of gas in the winter. Head to your local auto parts store and check out the wide variety of fuel stabilizers available.
Keeping the batteries at peak charge in the dead of winter is fundamental to winter operation. Find a charger with a deep cycle setting and an “auto-off” trickle charge switch and leave it on a 2-amp charge for 48 hours before you plan to head out. We also run a minimum of accessories when out in cold weather to keep the batteries at peak performance. It’s just no fun, and sometimes impossible, to pull start a big outboard in 10 degree weather.
Following your winter expedition immediately drain the water from the engine to prevent it from freezing. Drain the water right at the ramp, as it only takes minutes for residual water to freeze and potentially cause serious damage. Once on the trailer, tilt the outboard all the way up and then all the way down until it’s vertical. Then turn the engine over until no more water is coming from the exhaust outlet. Most new outboards are self-draining so they shouldn't provide much of a problem but do this procedure anyway. For older outboards and four strokes with a side plug you must loosen the plug and allow the engine to drain while it’s still warm to avoid serious damage.
After you've made all the preparations and are about to leave on your winter outing, don't forget to pack a little common sense. Hypothermia is a serious danger so be sure to dress for the weather you'll likely encounter and always wear the proper flotation in any winter boating situation. There’s no reason why avid boating and fishing enthusiasts should be cooped up all winter long without a chance to enjoy their hobby. By following a few simple precautionary steps, you can keep your boat engines running smoothly all winter long.


Springtime Power Shot

One of the most overlooked areas of boat maintenance is proper fuel conditioning. Boaters often complain about the costs of additives, but clogged filters and nine foot seas may change their minds. We suggest using stabilizers both summer and winter. The casual boater, going for short rides, could take several months to use a full tank of fuel which can go stale or grow all kinds of nasties in the tank. Gold Eagle brands have a great line of fuel conditioning products which include: Sta-bil fuel stabilizer, Diesel Power diesel additives, 104+ Performance additives and HEET gas line antifreeze. It’s like the man says, “You can pay me now, or you can pay me…well, when I tow you in.”

Q: After using the boat for three days then getting gas it started to lose low end power and does not idle below 1000 rpm. It seems like it is missing. I put in two cans of “Sea Foam” to correct the water issue if one was present, but I also filled the truck and had no problems. I wonder if I have a fouled plug or a bad coil for one of the cylinders. Also, during the previous day the tach would spike up and down but you never heard any change in the motor. This has been going on a while, maybe that is something to look for. Appreciate your trouble shooting,
Dave

A: Dave,
We agree that it’s probably not bad fuel, and we think the tach bounce is a separate issue. It could be a bad plug but since all you did was fuel the boat, it seems unlikely. You didn’t mention if you’re running a fixed tank, or portables. If you use portables, it’s a good possibility that one of the O-rings on the tank connector got damaged, and the engine is pulling air into the fuel line. If you have a fixed tank, check to be sure the vent tube is not clogged. An easy way to check is to loosen the fuel cap on the tank and run the engine. If it runs OK, then tighten the cap and see if it starts to have problems. If there is no change, perhaps a new filter is in order. Beyond this, it’s probably time to see the friendly marina mechanic. As for the tach bounce, we think you’ll find a loose wire, but the signal wire may not be the culprit. Be sure to check the power and ground wires as well.